For Sale, 1987 Roadtrek Versatile Class B RVPrice: $16,000 Contact: HERE
Used RV for Sale, If you're seeking classic Roadtrek for your next ride? it could be the perfect candidate to consider. As shown class B camper made by Roadtrek in 1987 based on a Dodge B250 van chassis, this Versatile model has 19 feet long, is 36 years still runs and drives well, and has an interior renovated, with 137K miles on it. The Roadtrek was listed on craigslist for $16,000 in Los Angeles. If you're interested please read more below.
Detail RV by owner
1987 Roadtrek Home & Park Versatile Class B Original Camper Van Dodge B250 with removable slat bed system for traveling/hauling/storage.
Meet Bad Boy, the ideal stealth city camper and old-school van that nobody notices but everybody loves as a big old school van. Drives strong and smooth at 137,000 miles. Always a California car and registered as a commercial vehicle. Just passed smog. Registration due in March. Easy to drive and park at 19’ long. Roadtreks are among the most clever Class B’s, and this early model is a good example with it’s aerodynamic shape, 6’ tall interior standing room, swiveling front seats that convert into two extra beds, full kitchen, toilet, lots of interior storage, built in air conditioner and internal door/baffles that give privacy to the toilet, rear bed and front beds. These Dodge vans are easy to work on with readily available parts. The 318 engine was a solid and durable performer for years. This was the last year of the carbureted Ram Vans. These earlier Rams are more handsome then the front and rear wraparound face lifts they got after ‘94 (same van otherwise).
The key limitation of most motorhomes are their convertible folded foam block cushion beds and Roadtreks were no exception. I modified the rear bed/dinette (not needed as you have a front dinette) into an entirely new system. The spare tire has been moved outside onto the rear door and the furnace and power block have been minimized so that the slat bed platform can take a normal mattress or air mattress. The crossbeams and slats are also entirely removable to allow for hauling materials or toys (4x8 plywood, motorcycle, bikes). In this way one could carry a large amount of gear in the rear, while using the two front converted driver and passenger beds.
Normally one would have a rear mattress over the slats (with plenty of storage underneath) and use the front dinette for eating.If you wanted the option of removing the rear bed during travels, an inflatable mattress would give you the option of removing the bed system and storing it onboard, without using much internal space.This very adaptable system is unique. It also allows you to raise one side of the cross beams to counter for street angle, giving a level bed.
The other modification I made to the rear bed area was removing the false walls on either side, and the old fiberglass insulation behind them. Fiberglass insulation in a moving vehicle eventually breaks down into nasty glass dust. In place of the false walls, I glued the soundboard and corkboard to the inside walls for thermal and sound insulation. This also made for a lengthier bed of 6’4” Before the modification the bed was a tight 6’. Bed space is now 6’4” by 4’4”
I have also removed all the floor carpet, foam fabric panels, old curtains and fiberglass insulation that make for toxic air in so many of these campers. Cork is an excellent insulator and a natural material that does not off gas or produce dangerous VOCs or flame retardant dusts. Most older and even newer motorhomes are filled with toxic foams and materials, not to mention uncomfortable beds.
Insulated R4 foam panels (silver on outside, white on inside) have been custom fit for each window, to allow for full privacy and also thermal insulation, which you do not get with fabric curtains. They pop in and out and solve many issues common to windows on campers.
Comes with a full factory manual for this exact year, plus original pamphlets and brochures.
Mint condition Dometic 2310 3-way put in 2 years ago. Before installing, the rear evaporative tubing was treated with rust resistant paint to ensure long life.
New Shurflo water pump.
Dometic 3 speed fan
Working propane heater
Working stove and overhead fan
Working Fedders AC (when plugged into power hookup)
Oil and transmission fluid, coolant just changed, including new oil filter, new fuel filter and new transmission filter.
3 year old main battery
4 year old internal battery
High amp Chrysler 100 amp alternator (2 years ago $187)
Heavy duty voltage regulator installed (2 months ago)
Rebuilt ECM for California Lean Burn Model (2 years ago)
New front discs, front wheel bearings and front pads (2 years ago)
New aluminum radiator, water pump, hoses, belts. (2 years ago)
New timing chain and gear set (done with water pump) (2 years ago)
New harmonic balancer (2 years ago)
New catalytic converter (last month for smog)
New oxygen sensor (same)
Rebuilt carburetor (2 months ago)
Rebuilt smog pump (3 years ago)
Decent XL tires with no cracks
(final note - I borrowed a small table in photos from friends RT, can’t seem to find the original in my garage. An underneath mount for a new front table is included that goes on top of the metal post.
Foam panel insulation used inside front door, rear door, and side doors to replace fiberglass insulation
Electric window motors rebuilt.
New seals and eyelashes around front windows.
Paint is fair. Pinstriping is worn, All original and classic.
Old fabric on the seats has a few tears.
(I would replace them with natural latex cushions and brown leather)
When I flushed and changed the transmission fluid and filter, I did not get a perfect seal on the transmission pan. This has created a tiny leak that leaves a minor spot on a driveway if parked for a few days.
When I changed the fuel pump, the seal is not perfect and results in a tiny oil leak that will leave a few drops on a driveway if parked for a few days.
Both are easy issues to fix and really require no attention, except to check levels every few months.
Cruise control probably not working
AC not working.
Slight leak in two of the skylights. Easy fix just requires getting on the roof and sealing the rubber moldings.
I’ve owned many RV’s and Class B’s are the best. They give you the least amount of stress whether driving, parking or leaving on the street. I’ve also learned that converting your bed every night from dinette to bed is a total pain. A rear proper cross bed with a front dinette is the ideal solution. Lengthwise beds in Class B’s are the worst (Sprinter because of narrow body). If you rotate the Roadtrek’s front seats, you can have dinner for four people.
You can buy a used Sprinter for 15K, convert it yourself (which will take massive effort and cost - no plumbing, no insulation, a specialized diesel motor) then pay an extra dollar per gallon for diesel compared to gas, to get a 20 mpg camper. A Dodge Class B will give you 12-16mpg which is roughly equivalent cost-wise. Older Roadtreks or Class B’s are the most effective way to get on the road with plumbing, propane fridge, stove and water, and have a very repairable vehicle wherever you go. The problem with Class B’s are the toxic materials, fabrics and carpets, which has been addressed in this Class B. You can order most parts at an Autozone, and there is no end to inexpensive Dodge B250’s used parts. The other issue with Class B’s, is they look like motorhomes, with AC and other units on the top. Roadtreks tuck the AC under fiberglass top, and don’t’ look like an RV at all.
The black water tank in this Roadtrek has never been used. I prefer to use public facilities and not haul around waste and all its issues. I have also found that not having a shower in a Class B has some advantages. All Bad Boy needs is some thin film solar on the roof, and a portable shower system for those who want to go offgrid for extended periods.
Please contact Aaron